Identifying Art Deco Jewellery

Identifying Art Deco Jewellery

Let's discuss the key design elements associated with Art Deco Jewellery, which can help in identifying pieces from this period (1919-1939). Here are some notable features:

  • Popular Designs and Motifs: Art Deco Jewellery often features geometric designs, symmetric shapes, abstract patterns, bold floral designs, and other natural forms. It draws influences from various cultures, including Asian-inspired carved stones, Islamic patterns, and Egyptian revival.

  • Popular Cuts: Geometric cuts like baguettes, step cuts, French cut, Carré cut, lozenge cut, and calibrated cuts are commonly seen in Art Deco Jewellery. Round cuts are also used in structured shaped settings.

  • Popular Stones: Classic gemstones like diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds are frequently used in Art Deco Jewellery. Additionally, black onyx, marcasite, jade, coral, and synthetic stones are also seen.

  • Popular Techniques: Art Deco Jewellery utilizes techniques such as carved stones, pavé settings, millegrain details, channel-set calibrated cuts, bead settings, and filigree work.

  • Metal Preference: Platinum is often the metal of choice in Art Deco Jewellery. Yellow gold pieces are often topped with platinum, and white gold is also used.

  • Jewellery Items: Art Deco Jewellery includes bold solitaires, earrings for non-pierced ears, long bead necklaces, big statement brooches, dress clips, straight line bracelets, and panel rings.

Spotting genuine Art Deco pieces from "in the style of" counterparts can be challenging, but here are some extra identification tips:

  • Look for indications of handmade construction, such as meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail.
  • Check for hand engravings, millegrain details, and bead settings.
  • Well-finished craftsmanship from all angles, including the back and hard-to-reach areas, is a good sign.
  • General wear and signs of aging can indicate authenticity.
  • Hallmarks, if present, can provide clues about the piece's origin and time period.

Keep in mind that while these characteristics are commonly associated with Art Deco Jewelry, they are not exclusive to the period.

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